Bermuda is a tropical island paradise steeped in history and saturated in rum. I spent two months on the island as an intern at the National Museum in 2019, and had an extraordinary amount of fun. That's what this island and its people decree: visitors must enjoy themselves. If you visit Bermuda, do not be a nasty tourist and do not be stressed. Intrepid author Samuel Clemens (Mark Twain) visited Bermuda eight times from 1867-1910 and remarked,"You go to heaven if you want to, I'd rather stay right here in Bermuda". Truly, there are wonderful things to do in the pristine waters, painted reefs, and glowing brush of the isle, but Twain's greatest compliment of Bermuda stemmed from his respect for the lack of distress and bustle evident on the island before the tourism industry erupted. This post hopes to instruct visitors looking for some peace on where to go.
First a little orientation. If you fly into Bermuda, you'll land, technically, on St. David's Island (at the easternmost tip of the island). There is a great rivalry, played out on the cricket patch, between East (St. Geroge's) and West (Somerset Parish) and though the island is small, the areas are distinct. We shall divide our to-see list by region-- West (Royal Navy Dockyard), Central (Hamilton), and East (St. Geroge's Island). The last section of the blog is devoted entirely to beach spots, so stay tuned. The whole of Bermuda is only about 24 mi (40 km) in length and is divided into nine "parishes", but it takes over 2 hours to get from one end to the other.
Due to the large population present on the small island, and the even greater influx of summer visitors, no visitor is allowed to rent a car. Even citizens are limited to one car per household, which is why mopeds (unrestricted) are so popular among young adults (Bermudians on mopeds drive like the devil, and we witnessed an accident while there; I loved moped riding but be sure to drive safely and wear a helmet!). The easiest way to get around the island is by bus. I found the service pretty comfortable, and be advised that Bermudians are neat and clean so they will not permit slovenly dressed, sand-coated, dirty, drunkards aboard their buses. The buses do however, run on, how-do-we-say "Island Time", which means you may be caught waiting at a stop. And definitely pay attention to the schedule, as some evening services end early. There is also a ferry service based in Hamilton, the island's capital. The ride is beautiful on a sunny day and relatively cheap (around $5 one-way). Tokens/Passes can be bought at kiosks very easily and several discount options are available for day and zone passes. Due to the great amount of American tourism Bermuda experiences, the rate of currency exchange is 1:1. 1 American dollar=1 Bermudian dollar. However, be sure to exchange currency when you arrive, as American dollars will not be accepted on buses or by businesses. Also be advised: Bermudian Carnivale is the third week of June and Cup Match (the cricket match celebrating the end of slavery in Bermuda) is August 1-2. Cup Match, which I attended, is terrific (be sure, if you are around at this time, to stop by Horseshoe Beach as well as the match itself).
St. George's
The Unfinished Church, St, George's c. 1875
Bermuda was first encountered by British seamen when the SeaVenture wrecked on its treacherous reefs in 1609 (a scene visible on Bermuda's flag). The shipwrecked sailors survived on wild boars which had been left on the island for that express purpose by Spanish sailors decades before. Likely due to its distance (900 mi.) from the nearest coast, Bermuda had no indigenous population. However, its prime location in the Atlantic made it an ideal trading stop-over and naval waypoint between Europe and the Americas. Rum, sugar, cotton, and enslaved people, passed through Bermudian territory long after the treacherous seas and unpredictable weather which had wrecked the Sea Venture in the first place gave rise to conspiracies about the "Bermuda Triangle".
The shipwrecked Britains, led by Capt. George Somers, constructed their own ships of Bermuda cedar, and sailed to Jamestown, just in time for the 1610 "Starving Times" in the colony, which the boar stores brought by the Somers' crew helped ameliorate. Recognizing Bermuda's potential, Somer's formed the "Somers' Island Company" and settled permanently in Bermuda in the town of St. George's (the island was eventually named Bermuda after the Spanish traveled Juan de Bermudez who mapped it before Somers).
Thus, St. George's streets are the oldest on the island, and its town square is filled with interesting architecture and culture harkening back to the 17th century.
Don't miss:
King's Square - The center of St. George's, the square has old pillories and a gallows to admire. Also, don't miss the dunking of a "salty wench" which is actually quite hilarious. An intrepid woman in reenactment dress spouts obscenities as she is being chastised for unruly behavior by being tied to a dunking chair and plunged into the water. There are also great places to eat around here and a beautiful walk to be done around the back streets.
St. Peter's Church and Cemetery - The oldest Protestant Church in the New World, this was my favorite spot in St. Geroge's. Extremely European in design the cedar-work, family crests, and artifacts in this church are amazing. The cemetery surrounding the Church is even more fascinating. Here you can witness segregation of black and white parishioners, even in death, a racial divide evident too in the Church's baptismal records (slavery was abolished in Bermuda in 1834, 27 years after Britain and 31 years before America). It is in this cemetery that you will also find the graves of the Governor Richard Sharples and his young guard Hugh Sayers, who were assassinated by agents of the Black Beret Cadre in 1973. Here as well, is the inspiration for Brian Burland's book A Fall From Aloft, the tragedy written on the tombstone of a young sailor. Take a walk through this cemetery and consider the detail with which some of the deaths are explained, and how greatly that contrasts with the lack of respect shown many simpler graves in the "black" side of the cemetery.
A headstone in St. Peter's Cemetery detailing this young sailor's death due to "a fall from aloft" a square-rigged vessel
The Unfinished Church - Due to a parish dispute in the 19th century, on a hill a short walk from town is the Unfinished Church (picture above). A quiet place rarely swarming with tourists, the Church is certainly interesting to see (though you cannot "enter" it). (see photo above).
Fort St. Catherine - Fort St. Catherine showcases some of the most interesting gun technology exhibits you can find on the island. Climb over the ramparts and peer out of slits in the rock to observe this great fort, strategically placed to guard the settlement. Exhibits inside are also worth seeing, and include some Crown Jewels.
Lili Perfumery - If shops are more your style, close to St. Peter's you will find an interesting one, Lili Perfumery. The craft of perfume making has existed in Bermuda not long after the first chunk of ambergris (a sperm whale excretion used in odor-retention technology) was found washed up on its beaches. While I didn't get to go personally, I've heard from friends that the how-perfume-is-made tour at Lili is very fascinating.
Hamilton
The colorful streets of Hamilton
Hamilton is the governmental seat of Bermuda (still technically a British Territory with home-rule). The city is vibrant and fun. It's where I did my grocery shopping and some research in the government archives. Be advised that things are quite expensive at the fancy restaurants, but the food is good. Be sure and try the traditional Wahoo sandwich (fried Wahoo fish with tartar sauce on toasted cinnamon-raisin bread). This is also where you'll find the bus terminal. Hamilton is home to Bermuda's nightlife - a scene that I found very safe and youthful. The bars lining the harbor front are certainly worth a visit.
Don't miss:
The Princess Hotel - The Princess Hotel is an historic and beautiful place. The women who worked as censors searching mail for contraband, codes, and intelligence during the second world war were housed here. You don't have to be a guest to visit and there's even a Picasso (a very, very little one) at the far end of the second floor art exhibit. Harbor Nights are a fun Summer event which take place every Wednesday. Stalls with wares, music, and drinks line the Harbor from 7-10 pm. While the main drag is boppin, you walk through the Princess Hotel outside to its restaurant, where you'll find cheap drink tickets, dancing, and an enormous statue of Mickey Mouse.
Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute (BUEI) - While some people decry this place as the nexus of treasure-hunting, I loved its exhibits.
Shell Collection Exhibit at the BUEI
Especially those on theories of the Triangle (could it be methane gas pockets sinking ships?) and the shell collections of "sailors' valentines". Again, I went on a weekend when there weren't a lot of tourists around and enjoyed several hours alone in the Museum.
Royal Navy Dockyard
The Governor's House, The Keep, c. 1892
When the Royal Navy claimed the island, the west end became their fortress, a dockyard with magazines, barracks, and fortified stone walls known as "The Keep". The Keep currently holds the National Museum of Bermuda, another one of my favorite island spots. In the 19th century, felons living aboard "Hulk" prison ships built the yard, and many who fell prey to yellow fever are buried in a fascinating cemetery on the way to Somerset. The Dockyard is full of old shops and restaurants. Good fudge. Good sandwiches (would recommend the Pastry Shop). Crafts abound in the ClockTower Mall, a favorite among tourists and a fun place to explore. The Dockyard is also where you can charter a boat for other excursions. I went scuba diving at a wreck and at a reef with DiscoverScuba. It was incredible. Be sure you're certified if you want to go. Bermuda has some of the best wreck diving in the world. Do more research to tailor your dive to your strengths and wishes.
National Museum - The entry fee is reasonable and you can spend hours on the grounds. The main building was previously the Governor's House, built in 1892. Sit on the porch at sunset and you can be transported to the 19th century colony. The exhibits include topics such as the lives of enslaved peoples, yacht-racing, Caribbean cultural exchange, Portuguese immigration, environmental stewardship, and Bermuda during WWII (don't miss the story about the captured Nazi submarine!). Stroll outside the Governor's House to see the mounted guns, loaded from below, and walk the walls. The lower courtyard (nearer the Museum entrance) includes exhibits on early small boats, island infrastructure, and hosts many shipwreck artifacts in the fire-proof building that once housed British ordinance (explosives and the like). Be sure to see the shark oil barometer and read about the adventure of the Spirit of Bermuda. Sheep "mow" the grass throughout the grounds and you can see Casemates, the prison where the last lawful executions were carried out in a British Territory (following the previously mentioned assassination) in the distance. Also within the Museum grounds is a Kids Zone and a dolphin show. You can pay to swim with the dolphins and the experienced employees are truly wonderful. There was a newborn dolphin when I was there in June 2019.
One of many models in the Museum Collection
Food Recommendations
There are far too many one can give. Suffice it to add these few where I have fond memories.
La Trattoria - Arguably the best pizza on the island. Check it out. (Hamilton)
The Frog and Onion Pub - A hilarious and decent pub founded by a Frenchman "frog" and a Bermudian "onion" in the '90's. Trivia nights and great beer. (Dockyard)
The Country Squire - downtown Somerset. They literally serve you the entire blender if you order a pina colada. Refreshingly laid-back.
Le Oriental - best sushi ever. And excellent, excellent service. (Hamilton)
Beaches, Beaches, Beaches
Long Beach - the best beach in Bermuda is Long Beach. It is calm. Quiet. Natural. Superbly blue. And the size of the parrotfish you see here! Not only are the waves powerful, but there is plenty of scrambling you can do on rocks by the beach. Walk west towards Horseshoe Beach and you will find numerous isolated mini-beaches you can claim for yourself hidden in the rock formations. This is one of the few beaches in Bermuda where you can find solitude and serenity. It's my absolute favorite. This mile stretch between Long Beach and Horseshoe Beach is really wonderful to walk at low tide. Horseshoe beach, the beach of pink sand, is also beautiful but so crowded in season. And watch out for Portuguese man 'o wars (they look like blue cellophane bags but their tentacles are many meters long and their sting can kill you).
A cove at Long Point Beach
Glass Beach - In Somerset Parish, Glass beach is a really cool place. Centuries of glass disposal at a nearby dump and natural currents have turned it into a beach-glass paradise. Not a great place for swimming (the aforementioned dump and all) but a one-of-a-kind location. You won't forget the tinkling sound the glass makes in the waves-like a wind chime! Don't take any glass home.
Admiral's Cove - a true hidden gem, Admiral's Cove, (which I walked to from Hamilton but would recommend taking the bus to), is a small swimming hole on the south coast of the island. Follow a luscious path to the hidden cove to swim, and follow another path higher into the forest to a forty foot jump!
Blue Hole Hill - Bermuda is also home to interesting geological formations, including the famous Tucker's Caves. While I did not visit them, I do not feel I missed out. Instead, I visited another beautiful swimming hole: Blue Hole Hill. The minerals give the oasis a color all its own and its not very well known. A barracuda swam right past my feet (don't worry they're not dangerous if unprovoked). Ask a local for specific directions. It's not far from the caves.
Me at Blue Hole Hill
Tobacco Bay - Tobacco Bay can be very crowded when the cruise ships are in the harbor. However, if they're not, its rocky glen has some great fish to see snorkeling. It's a fun atmosphere, and there's even a billiard table right in the water. Snorkeling here, my brother and I even found what looked to be a Pan-Am seat-cover...plane down?
Clearwater Beach - On St. David's Island, this is a truly beautiful beach. One side is coated with microplastics. The other is immaculately clear. That's the currents at play at the eastern tip of the island. Camping and picnicking are great here. There's a Tower to climb and you can just see the NASA Station. Also, Carter House, a small Museum named after an early settler, is not far, and well worth a look- if only to see their artifacts on palmetto art and early whaling.
The shed at the Carter House Museum, St. David's Island c. 1640
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