Spain 2022

Traveling to see my friend in Madrid, the words of Washington Irving's Tales of the Alhambra echoed in my head, "There is a serenity of soul, a buoyancy of spirits, an elasticity of frame that renders mere existence enjoyment". Upon reading these words in my sun-dappled backyard, gilded by the setting sun with the gentlest breeze livening a green scent to the air, I once saw myself in the Moorish castles of southern Spain. My precious imagination and yearning to visit the land of Grenada will be satisfied for now by a trip to the country's esteemed capital, Madrid. And I shall aspire to experience it in the beautiful way which makes simply existing enjoyable. The bulwark of Republican resistance against Franco during the Spanish Civil War (1936-1939), Madrid is now a cosmopolitan industrial city known for its art and tapas. 

                                                 

                                                               Me at the Royal Palace, Madrid

From March 29- April 4, 2022 with the spring sunshine at my back, I spent four full days in Madrid and took a day-trip to Segovia. What follows is thoughtfully-considered record of my adventure, should you ever be inspired to follow in my footsteps. 

The Prado

The Prado Museum deserves its international reputation. It is a towering edifice filled with humbling works. I found my time in the Museum spiritual, entertaining, educational, and yes, overwhelming as well. I arrived around 11:00 am on my first day in Madrid and fell into line, in which I waited for about 20 min. I’d recommend buying your ticket online the day before so you save yourself the time, but know that the “Collections” and “General” Admission tickets are the same—a General Admission ticket will get you everywhere. Entering the Museum with a map in hand was awe-inspiring and it wasn’t 15 minutes into exploring the halls that I felt as if I was drowning. So I prioritized Velasquez and Rafael on the main (second) floor and then went and rewarded myself with a pastry and juice at the Café Prado (delicious, by the way).

I decided to turn the floor plan pamphlet, which included the collection’s most famous works, into a sort of scavenger hunt, while still visiting every room. My favorite rooms included the works of Hieronymus Bosch and the large salon featuring the Gisbert painting on the Execution at Malaga. Be sure to get upstairs to Goya’s earlier works (they are much more uplifting) and do not rush through the Medieval halls—you’ll behold some really interesting hagiography if you look closely. Be advised that no photography—flash or otherwise—is permitted. It can be a hard rule to follow and you’ll see other visitors (typically younger) sneaking a shot—and being immediately upbraided by the omnipresent security guards who they’d assumed weren’t watching. I wrote down the titles and artists of favorite masterpieces instead, which actually helped me remember them better. I spent four hours in this Museum, longer, I think, than the typical visitor, and mostly enjoyed just wandering amongst hunting scenes, laquer-like floral still-lifes, images of Queen Johana the Mad, and mythological statues. But if you do not have that sort of time, you won’t leave disappointed if you first visit the halls of the greats and save yourself a final half-hour to simply peruse, making the visit your own and getting away from the crowds. While tours are offered, those in English do not get very in-depth from an art-historical perspective, though they do help you navigate the labyrinth. Honestly, I could have stayed longer. Give yourself at least 3 hrs. 

El Parque de Buen Retiro

The beautiful park, which I saw in its inchoate spring, is a lovely place to walk beneath a canopy of trees. Much of the flora here was transported from Latin American colonies during Spain’s golden imperial age, and the bright green monk parakeets flying through the trees contribute to its verdant exoticism. Many sectors of the park contain their own character and should be visited. The imposing Monument to King Alfonso XII, which overlooks a small man-made lake in its marble splendor was our first stop. Astride his steed, Alfonso, the final monarch preceding the constitutional democracy, surveys the romantic rowers on the lake as kids play soccer behind him, and the notes of a saxophone drift through the air. The Crystal Palace and the Palacio de Velasquez are slightly south. The Crystal Palace, closed when I visited, is glass-walled and also looks out on a grove of interesting trees growing out of the water with swollen trunks. A small cave and flowering trees are nearby, as are numerous singular fountains. The Garden of Reminiscence and the Garden of Memory (or something like that) are also beautiful. The Rose Garden must be spectacular in summer bloom, its fence full of thorny stems and multi-colored blossoms in many varieties. I visited the Park two days in a row and enjoyed some sunshine lounging on the lawn with many like-minded Madrilenos and tourists. Oh-and don’t miss the statue of the Fallen Angel, another artistic point at the southwest corner. 

Plaza Mayor

The main plaza and the site of state ceremonies and tortures as well as the central market is now a thriving restaurant district where you can taste true Madrid cuisine for high (what do you expect?) prices. That being said, there are many options and in the Mercado San Miguel, a glass-walled market reminding me of a Gilded-Age train station/greenhouse, you can try many tapas, pastries, snacks, and drinks. My two favorite alcoholic beverages in Madrid include vermut (de griefo, or “on tap” and brewed in many bars and restaurants at afternoon lunch) and tinto de verano (very like sangria but more carbonated). Vermut is sweet and strong, tinto refreshing and full of red-fruits. I visited many Madrid bars and restaurants outside Plaza Mayor, and I'll include some favorite tapas and dishes here: tortilla (very different from the Latin American dish) is a sort of tart/pie of potatoes and egg (I wasn't a huge fan but it is traditional); corquettas are delicious bite-sized snacks typically of creamy ham and cheese fried (my favorite!); jamon iberico-Iberico ham has a special flavor and curing, walking besides the stalls one can actually see butchers carving it off full hocks with the hoof still attached-the meat is thin and salty-typically served on a piece of bread as a tapa (there are many other fantastic pork dishes in the city); bocadillos (sandwiches) and tostas (open-faced toasts) with fried calamari, salmon, and prawns were also delicious. 

The plaza mayor is where much great food can be found. Visiting the plaza in the evening and by day gave us an interesting impression of its constant activity--and allowed and evening visit to the amazing Chocoleteria de San Gines. The feel inside this renowned chocoleteria reminded me of a bustling New Orleans beignet café: small clusters of tables filled with diners leaning in to each others' conversations and grabbing a dip from each others chocolate cups. The traditional dish-hot chocolate and churros-is delicious of course, the melted chocolate tastes similar to a rich hot pudding and the fried churros are light and unsweetened (the chocolate takes care of that). 

The Royal Palace

The Coat of Arms above shows symbols for Castille (castle), Leon (lion), Aragon (stripes), Navarre (chains), and Grenada (pomegranate), alongside the royal crown and the necklace of the Order of the Golden Fleece (a Catholic, chivalrous knighthood founded in 1430 by King Philip the Good). 

The Royal Palace drips splendor. An Iberian Versailles, the palace reminds the historian that Spain was the world's wealthiest country whilst receiving gold and silver from colonies in Mexico, Peru, and the Philippines in the 16th century whilst Britain and France were just venturing out in the 17th century, and busy fighting each other in the 18th. The Palace particularly recalls the reign of Charles III (1759-1788) easily recognized by his aquiline nose and hailed throughout the city for his benevolence financing schools and hospitals. Today, the monarch is a figurehead who comes out for ceremonial functions. King Juan Carlos I abdicated (due to old age) in 2014, passing the torch to his son Felipe VI, the current king, who, along with his wife and two young daughters, is a fashionable Spanish icon. 

We booked our tour tickets in advance online, a step I'd highly recommend as it allowed immediate admission bypassing a long line. If I could do it again, I'd definitely book the Royal Kitchen Tour as well, which was sold out at the time! The Palace tour allows you access to the bedrooms, halls, dining room, music room, and courtyard, and provides access to exhibits including the royal Stradivarius violins! 

Almudenas Cathedral

Directly outside the Palace is the National Cathedral--the Cathedral of Madrid's protectress since the 11th century, the Virgin of Almudena, and the seat of the archdiocese. Listening to the bells ring, reverberating deeply in my chest, was extraordinary, and an early Palm Sunday procession, accompanied by a marching band, led us to the church. I am Catholic and attended Sunday Mass. The Cathedral is a fascinating blend of the old and the modern, having only been completed in the 20th century and consecrated by Pope John Paul II in 1993. I'd recommend seeing a service and do, I plead, be respectful of the sacred Mass and don't tour while people are worshipping. 

Walking Tour: Cibeles, Gran Via, Sol

There are several wonderful streets and neighborhoods to explore--and Madrid is a very walkable city. The Paseo del Prado, a green street upon which the Plaza de Cibeles (where the government hall is) and Neptune Plaza lie, and Gran Via-a tremendous way of 20th century Revival architecture-entertain the eye and ear. It is along Gran Via that you will spot the huntress Diana firing her bow and see her arrows cut into the sidewalk across the street and where you will discover where the Spanish tooth-fairy--a gentle mouse--lives: the beautiful Metro station. Sol, the city center, contains the Madrid bear-tree statue. Neighborhoods Lavapies and Malasana boast great shops and restaurants.  

Reina Sophia Museum

I never dislike museums. I work as a Museum curator for goodness sake. But this Museum, by goodness, I will never step into again as long as I live. It is a pit of dark, distrubing depression. Who really wants to see dolls without eyes and brainwashed corpses? It's the subject matter: the art of fascism and holocaust. But it left me in a funk for the rest of the day. Guernica is of course an interesting painting, and Picasso's sketches and preliminary accessory works accompany the main work. The Spanish Civil War is a huge part of Madrid's history and its influence still lingers to this day. Get in free from 7-9 pm (though you'll still have to wait in a line even if you purchase online tickets). I doubt I've ever been so disturbed by artwork in my life. The curators would probably love to hear that. Enter at your own risk. 

Casa De Campo

This park, in contrast to Retiro, is traquility itself. The "campo" is five times larger than New York City's Central Park. Within it, we saw wooded trails, wildflower meadows, and a herd of snowy sheep. It was so beautiful, the meadow, in the words of my friend Lusia, reminiscent of a "living Van Gogh". The best way to see the park, in my humble opinion, is to bike. We rented from My Bike Rio, a shop very close to the park's eastern edge. The rate was only 10 euros an hr when we visited in April 2022--a great deal that equips you with helmet, basket, and bell! I only regret that we got the "city-bikes" which we did, admittedly, take on rough country trails anyway. But I'd suggest mountain bikes for a more fun ride! We did two hours, but you should take more, even picnic!

Templo de Debod

A fascinating spot, featuring a transplanted Egyptian Temple. Watch the sunset here. 

Segovia 

Segovia, Segovia. How beautiful you stand, amidst the snow-topped mountains, historic, in God's hands. 

About 40 mi northeast of Madrid, the city is a half an hour train ride away (Spain's high-speed rail system is one of, if not the best in Europe). Take a bus from the train station to the city's historic district (the station is far from the sights) and be aware you'll need cash to do this. The snowy mountains lie dead ahead of you as you depart. When you disembark the bus in the main square, you'll spot the Roman aqueduct, dated to around 50 BC. One of the first things we noticed was the divot pattern on the rocks, hypothesized to be where large "tongs" grasped them during building. We were correct in this assumption, as a pair of such tongs were later spotted in the Cathedrals gallery and an interesting sculpture of a devil taking a selfie on the high walls (a warning not to do such a thing) bore the same tool as well. Climb the steps and see the aqueduct from above as well as below. The gradient is nearly imperceptible and the engineering impressive. A monument of power, today small flowers sprout from the cracks. The aqueduct was built to carry water from the fresh springs in the mountains to the lower elevations; get a good view of the surroundings from the top of the aqueduct - I kept thinking how much I'd like to walk across. After checking out the aqueduct we headed toward Segovia's plaza mayor and Cathedral. Along the way we popped into a book store - I got a copy of Tale of the Alhambra in Spanish, which I read a little of whilst enjoying tea at the Alcazar cafe. Luisa got a volume of Gerardo Diego's poetry and coincidentally, the bookstore owner's mother was one of Diego's students! We also tried some sort of crispy pork rind whose name escapes me...it was like a bacon cruller, salty and fatty. 

The Aqueducto 

The Segovia Cathedral is a gorgeous Gothic Cathedral bearing the in-your-face hallmarks of Gothic architecture -- pointed ornate decoration, amazing flying buttresses, rib vaulted ceilings. Inside (yes, go inside!) you can tour the alcoves to explore tapestries, illuminated manuscripts, psalm books, vestments, reliquaries, and beautiful artwork. Deciphering the religious symbolism of the art in this Cathedral was the highlight of my trip. We were unable to climb the tower (an extra fee) but you may want to on your visit. 

The Cathedral and the remarkable ceiling of its alcove to Jesus, Son of God 

After this fun experience, we enjoyed walking through Segovia's narrow streets to the Alcazar! Perched on a rocky promontory, the existing Alcazar is roughly 550 years old, but was built on Moorish foundations perhaps 3 centuries older than that! Over the moat and into the royal rooms we went. The red velvet and eye-popping gold was stunning, but the ceilings impressed the most. The repetitive geometric patterns in the ceilings and mosaic tiles comes directly from Islamic art inspired by the fortresses earliest occupants. I especially enjoyed the room with all the Spanish monarchs seated on thrones in a sort of frieze below the ceiling. Their regional crest was above each head and a prop in the hands of their likenesses. I liked that each female ruler, as the portrait of the woman in the next room, seemed to be holding a book --wise and studious they were it seems. That's exactly what I see myself doing if an idle Alcazar dwelling lady. In this hall of glass windows look to the far city gates and the rolling pastoral lands surrounding the city, home to scraggly bush and shepherds. I swear you can feel a breeze. The grate looking into the chapel is behind you. The Alcazar is also home to the Spanish crowns military museum and you can see amazing science displays on earlier military physics and chemistry in the first-level museum. The top level of course, up el torre, is a memorable view. This sight also gives you a view of the bucolic landscape, mountains (it did actually snow while we were touring), and Cathedral in the distance - as well as the white storks tending their large stick-nests (what a wingspan they have!). 

The Alcazar, its astonishing gilded ceilings, and that bookish lady I so liked

After a reassuringly warm tea in the cafe, housed beside the Castle, we went on a hike along the hidden trails which run along the rocky promontory. I would highly recommend this walk. Don't miss it! Verdant paths and deep caves populate the way, reminding one of Irving's stories of Moorish treasure hidden in geological features. Tales do still linger, I hear. The path continues over a small bridge fording a river and ends onto a green below the rising Alcazar - an iconic perspective. 

Scenes along the rocky hike

We sang and chatted throughout our walk and ended back at the Aqueduct to see it at sunset, russet and gold. A traditional music conference was going on as men in medieval dress serenaded school kids. We grabbed some pizza and headed back, recording our day as a perfect one in our notebooks on the train ride home.